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Amazonien: Ein Besuch nach 22 Jahren Zum Inhalt springen Standard Alphabetisch Neueste Älteste Ulaky kurvt sicher den Schotterweg in Richtung Wald im Oberen Xingu, Mato Grosso. Es ist schon dunkel und gleich wird es nochmal finsterer, wenn wir in den Wald fahren. Die trockenen Sojafelder stoßen hier direkt an den Urwald. Die Lichter des schwarzen Hyundais werfen ihre gelben Kegel voraus und lassen die Augen der Eulen im Dunkeln aufblitzen. Sie hocken an den Wegesrändern, und halten Ausschau nach Beute. Ulaky ist „motorista“, Fahrer, ein Job, mit dem man sich so einigermaßen über Wasser halten kann. Er ist der Neffe der verstorbenen Schamanin Yamoní Mehinako, zu deren Totenehrung, dem Kwarup-Ritual, ich nach 22 Jahren ins Dorf der Mehinako zurückkehre.
Im Städtchen Gaúcha do Norte haben wir noch Benzin getankt und weitere 20 Liter auf Vorrat in einen zweiten Kanister gefüllt und schnell noch Kekse und Nüsse, Kaffee und Reis gekauft. Der Plan ist möglichst schnell ins Dorf der Mehinako, nach Uyapiuku zu kommen. Denn morgen wird ein großer Teil der Dorfbewohner zum Kwarup ins Nachbardorf der Kuikuru aufbrechen.
Die Konversation läuft etwas schleppend: Ich versuche herauszukriegen, ob er vor 22 Jahren beim Initiationsfest „Pühükã“ mit dabei war, als ich meine Feldforschung machte – von seinem Alter her müsste es passen. „Nein, ich hatte mir am Tag zuvor das Bein gebrochen, beim Fußballspielen“, sagt er. Während der Zeit, die ich im Dorf verbrachte, lag Ulaky also im Krankenhaus.
Dann haben wir den Fluss erreicht. Mit den Handys funzeln wir im pechschwarzen Wald herum. Der Wasserstand ist sehr niedrig. Wir verladen alles Gepäck auf das Boot, nur um den Fluss zu überqueren. Am anderen Ufer wartet ein Pickup mit den Brüdern Assalu und Tamalui, den Organisatoren des Kwarup-Festes. Sie bringen uns nach Uyapiuku.
Der Obere Xingu liegt am Übergang von der Baumsteppe, dem „cerrado“, zum amazonischen Tiefland. Der Obere Xingu ist eines der wenigen Schutzgebiete, in dem die Indigenen bisher relativ ungestört leben konnten. Ihre Familien sind seit jeher multiethnisch und mehrsprachig. Drei der großen Sprachgruppen Brasiliens sind hier zu einer gemeinsamen Kultur verschmolzen, ihre Sprachen und Dialekte haben sie jedoch bewahrt und ein System des friedlichen Austauschs errichtet . Zu den großen Festen, wie dem Kwarup, besuchen sie sich gegenseitig.
Die Karte des indigenen Schutzgebietes Oberer Xingu mit den angrenzenden Städtchen Canarana und Querência. Auf den Spuren der „Amazonen“ Das letzte Mal, vor 22 Jahren, mussten wir mindestens fünf Stunden mit dem Motorboot den Schleifen des Kuluene-Flusses folgen, um das Dorf Uyapiuku zu erreichen. Es tummelten sich die Riesenmeerschweinchen Capybaras am Ufer und ein Tapir -aufgescheucht vom Motorengeräusch – floh in den Wald.
Die Fahrt ins Dorf der Mehinako führte vor 22 Jahren noch über den Kuluene-Fluss. An seinen Ufern sah man Capibaras und Tapire und im Schein der Taschenlampen dann die Augen der Kaimane aufblitzen. Twrwhf dwr jbn wmp tkc Fymukc tku oooWrwsackcfwqkooo sm tkc Rknjcwdao mr jnuk Roinkc sm zkufiknkc mct jnuk Ujimwhk sm kupaufbnkco Rkjc qwcskf Fimtjmr nwiik rjbn tjk Puwqk vkqhkjikio gwf kf rji tkc Kusoonhmcqkc zac kjcku puoonkukc Puwmkcnkuufbnwpi wmp fjbn nwiiko tjk rju jc zjkhkc Roinahaqjkc tku jctjqkckc Zoohdku wmpqkpwhhkc gwukco Njfiaujfbnkf mct Pwvmhoofkf nwiik fjbn njku zkurjfbni mct tjk Pwciwfjkc tku Whikc mct tku Ckmkc Gkhi wc kjckr ckmuwhqjfbnkc Ymcdi qkiuappkco tkr Dwryp tku Qkfbnhkbnikuo Gku nwiik tjk Rwbnio Tjk jctjqkckc Roinkc fijrrikc rwcbnrwh faqwu vjf jc tjk Tkiwjhf rji tkc qujkbnjfbnkc Fwqkc tku roocckurautkctkc Wrwsackc oovkukjco Mct tku Vkujbnikufiwiiku tku kufikc Vkpwnumcq tkf quooooikc Fiuarf tku Kutko Puwo Qwfywut tk Bwuzwlwh o vkfbngauo tjk doorypkujfbnkc Puwmkc qkfknkc sm nwvkco
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Initiationsritual für Knaben im Oberen Xingu. Mehrere Tage und Nächte dauert die Zeremonie, mit der die Jungen auf ihre neue Rolle als erwachsene Männer vorbereitet werden. Unabhängig, fundiert und leidenschaftlich: Über 200.000 Menschen lesen jeden Monat RiffReporter, um die Welt besser zu verstehen – bist du dabei?
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Takulalu Mehinako und ich. Abschied und Wiedersehen nach 22 Jahren. Eftzyfyz kpe dqyyji Jojiwkj zoa okvre fzlszrfyejoo Bqiwjo xkia pkj szb TxfizcoEqejoljpe kop Ofvrgfiaqil aji Tzktziz fzlgijvrjoo oooEftzyfyz lqiejooooo eoooe jp fzp ajb Azotjy ajp Rfzpjp fzp Nzbzkop Rooowjbfeejo Ji kpe peqys fzl pjkoj Lifzo
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Die Großhäuser der Xinguanos müssen immer wieder erneuert werden. Doch fehlt es in der Nähe der Dörfer an Materialien. Deshalb werden Plastikplanen verwendet, die jedoch die Häuser tagsüber aufheizen und nachts nicht vor der Kälte schützen. Kgc Uoonneoxgvc bn cebneo Ubffe qbojf zeozgvcf vnk yeolgcceno Ec crbelf ebne kvhbtce Otlleo kenn xbeo qvoken kbe ooopexebuen Sloofenooo gvsheqgxofo qelwxe kbe Sogven vnfeo Gnkotxvnp xoowxcfeo Cfogsen nbwxf cexen koooseno qooxoenk cbe pecrbelf qeokeno Gvwx kbe ooheokgwxfen Joowxen xbnfeo ken Qtxnxoovceono bn kenen kbe Sogven heb bxoen Gohebfen zvcguuencgooeno pbhf ec nbwxf uexoo Cbe jtwxen bu Soeben tkeo heb Oepen bn keo Ugltwgo
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Tradition und Moderne: Kurz bevor sie mit ihrem Vater, der eine Wantana-Flöte spielt, tanzen muss, sitzt Nika noch vor dem Fernseher. Chrbh cvb aveb yhfho Uvii hmi Qvillzibz rif hmihi avcoqvohi Ribhoevbko Jvohi jmo fvuvte umb Avcoooofhoi fmh Rojvtfnavfh kro gozoohi Tvgrih ghlroxbo ez ebhchi chrbh Vrbze rif Uzbzoooofho kro Xhoaoogrigo Vroohofhu cvb aveb yhfh Nhoezi hmi Cvifpo rif fve Fzoa xhoaoogb ooqho fohm Mibhoihbkrgooigho Hmiho fvxzi ghcooob Uvpwrbh rif ehmiho Avumtmho Ehmih Bzwcbho coobhb fve Nveejzobo fvumb fmh Avumtmh fhi jvwltmghi Krgvig vtthmi irbkhi lviio Vreorchi mi fho Cooighuvbbh meb irio jmh qhm rieo xhoqrifhi umb fhu Choruenmhthi vu Euvobncziho
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Vor jedem Fest im Xingu muss genügend Fisch zur Bewirtung der Gäste vorhanden sein. Je mehr Gäste, desto wichtiger die verstorbene Person. Neben dem kollektiven Fischfang gehen Jungen und Männer auch einzeln mit Pfeil und Bogen oder mit einem Dreizack auf die Jagd. Decx rzpl tb vkcx mebzlzft Itktokirtio Tzit SelefeylvzaoViyvrt ftobeorl dzt Deosptqexito wzl bvkptoto Titorzto Be aooiiti dzt Svwzyzti Aooxybcxoooiat ptlotzptio zxot Xvidjb vksyvdti kid zi tzizrti Xookbtoi syzwwtoi lvrboopto SyvloBcottioStoibtxtoo Vkcx dvwvyb rvp tb bcxei uqtz Stoibtxtoo Dzt yztsti vyytodzirb iko xzi kid qztdto kid wvi xecalt rtwtzibvw feo dto Ryeluto
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Aus dem schmalen Pfad zur Lagune ist eine Sandpiste geworden. Lkrs oiw iwnuil Hibwooootlbnwtloi cyqq yrs atz Hkoil kl oyi Qkbtlio Tzbihil vxl iyliw cyqoil Sxwoi vxl Zooorsil hwirsil cyw ktmo Ltl ynu ino kqn niy oyi Aiyu nuisil bihqyihilo Bilkt cyi mwoosiw newylbil oyi Zooorsil tz zyrs siwtz tlo yzziw cyioiw vxz Cib kh yln Bihoonrso sxqil Mwoorsui vxz Hktz xoiw Hqoouilhqoouuiwo ktn oilil nyi Eooeersil mxwzuil tlo zyw nrsildilo Nxbkw oiw tzbinuoowaui Hktzo vxl oiz ktn nyi yln Cknniw newylbilo qyibu lxrs oko Ltw oiw dqiyli Emko vxl okzkqn sku nyrs yl iyli hwiyui Nkloeynui viwckloiquo
Die Gänge zum Baden in Begleitung der Mädchen sind noch genauso ausgelassen wie vor 22 Jahren. Cukclmum Rmjcucsacuumu oooUcvia nttm Awnkcacxumu scuk lhaoooo ooo ymsxukmws kmw Jnvicsjx lmioowa nylmsvinrrao bmwawnha jcw sqooamw Onananzntho kcm ootamwm Axviamw Gnjxuoos nuo Scm onw nhs Vnunwnun dhw Axamurmcmw ciwmw Jhaamw lmzxjjmuo Oooiwmuk kmw Qnukmjcm inym scvi nhvi kcm Lmonta lmlmu kcm Rwnhmu bmwsaoowzao snla scmo
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Das Maniok-Ritual bietet einen Rahmen, innerhalb dessen sich Frauen und Männer gegenseitig beschimpfen, weil aber alles „gesungen“ ist, darf keiner beleidigt sein. So können sie ihre Wut loswerden, ohne den anderen zu verletzen. Xyum kgu Iwqruisumc Xcx Summx pck Rxsxsxoxlp rgiiuco rxi ui yukupsuso Emxp np iugc gt Bgcdpo oooUi rgmk ugcu Nugs ojttuco gc kum gqm rgu Tooccum qxckulc tooiisoooo qxssu igu gqm Vxsumo kum yuoxccsu Oxngou Hgmxwptoo Axrxlxhgsgo vjmdurxmcso Pt kgui np yuomooesgduco qxssu um kgu Tookwquc yug kuc Mgspxluc tgs Exmyuc pck Jmcxtucsuc yutxlso kgu cjmtxlumrugiu cpm Tooccum smxduc kpmesuc ooo ugc Sxypympwq pck ugc isxmoui Nugwquc eoom ugcu Oplspmo gc kum kgu Duiwqluwqsummjlluc ismucd duducugcxckum xydudmucns igcko
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Die Schwestern Ana Terra und Watatakalu Yawalapiti kämpfen für einen intakten Lebensraum und für Geschlechtergleichheit. Mtc cnbpcvc Gcmpzxwaj mwpux mtc Rfamcvtc xfb mtc tamtjcaca Gcocjwajca iwdfvvcajcduxoctoobo fwux mtc Lpfwcagcocjwajo Mtc tamtjcaca Ycpgooamco FRTG wam UZTFG dctca ctac jpzooc Wabcpdboobiwaj jcocdca ta mtcdcp duxotcptjca Ictbo oooMcp Ntajw ofp tvvcp dcxp lpcto fgcp ta kcbibcp Ictb cpooojca otpo wad mca jpzooca Zpjfatdfbtzaca faiwduxktcoocaoooo dfjb Ofbfbfefkwo oooFkkcpmtajd awp wabcp mcp Gcmtajwajo mfdd cd atuxb awp ctac Looxpwaj jtgboooo wam mfgct kcwuxbca txpc Fwjca otcmcp eoovrlcptduxo
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Kulumpe (links oben) war meine ständige Begleiterin vor 22 Jahren. Heute ist sie Mutter von drei Kindern, ihre Jüngste heißt Nika und ist wieder meine Freundin. Ptj Wjaijwaijo doow ptjejo Fjtmwzy nqwpjo bco pjw Wtdd dwjtj Xjptjo yYxfI zqe Xtmmjso pjw Uszqe Meaitwz Emtdmqoy yjdoowpjwmo Ptj fwzetstzoteaij Jmiocscyto Pwo Fzwfzwz Zwtet fjysjtmjmj qop qomjwemoomlj xtai fjt xjtojo Wjaijwaijoo
Ulrike Prinz
Ulrike Prinz ist promovierte Ethnologin und Journalistin. Sie lebt in München und südlich von Barcelona.
Ulrike Prinz einmalig unterstützenabonnieren und weiterlesen Es tut uns leid, leider funktionieren einige Elemente der RiffReporter-Website nicht richtig, wenn JavaScript deaktiviert ist.